There aren’t many iconic collections from renowned jewellery brands that have withstood the test of time, but Van Cleef & Arpels’ Perlée is one that has naturally etched its name amongst the world’s most recognisable line of jewellery creations.

It is no surprise that the golden beads have existed in the works of the maison since the 1920s. It does after all give off vibes of grandeur from a quintessential era. The beads were first used to emphasise a design or border a stone, but over the years it quickly became a loveable motif appearing in necklaces, bracelets, watches and everything else under the maison’s repertoire. It was in 2008 that the delicate beads finally got bestowed its own collection, and so it was then that the Perlée made its official debut to the world.

In recent years, the Perlée has seen many creative iterations. Fast forward to the present, and it has been reimagined with new coloured stones and precious materials. At the Palais Bulles by Pierre Cardin in Nice, France, Prestige had the chance to witness first-hand how the new Perlée collection is more colourful and joyful than ever. With the use of yellow, rose or white gold – and combined with precious or ornamental stones, mother-of-pearl or coral – the new Perlée creations illustrate the expertise of the maison’s savoir-faire in a light and delicate style.

We discovered that for the first time this year, links of golden beads have been assembled to create a watch bracelet of extreme flexibility. We also learned that the selection of materials is an essential stage in Van Cleef & Arpels’ tradition of excellence. We take a deeper look at how the jewellery of the Perlée collection remains timeless, all thanks to the agility of the celebrated golden beads.  

The maison introduces five new rings adorned with golden beads accentuated with ornamental stones like onyx, lapis lazuli, turquoise, coral and malachite, all crafted in a three-dimensional setting. Along with the coloured stones, the yellow gold further pops out, creating luminous pieces that radiate a cheerful yet dazzling effect.

The Perlée couleurs collection is made up of a bracelet and a pendant that revisit a style that was first introduced in 2017. Presented in an open bangle surrounded by golden beads, the bracelets bring together a dome in yellow gold set with diamonds, and a cabochon in lapis lazuli or coral. The pendants, on the other hand, sees the lapis lazuli and coral cabochons elegantly framed by a border of golden beads, emphasising their rounded lines.

This is the first time that the collection is utilising precious stones onto three new rings called the Perlée couleurs 5-row rings. Inspired by the Caroline rings and bracelets created by Van Cleef & Arpels in the late 1970s, this aesthetic creates a harmony between the warm yellow gold of the beads and the colourful overtones of rubies, sapphires and emeralds. Also used in the collection for the first time is a new technique that sees five rows of golden beads wrap themselves around the finger – the widest at the summit of the ring, with the thinnest below – with the band of precious stones held in place by polished gold nails positioned between the stones.

Using a similar style and technique like the Perlée couleurs 5-row rings, these diamond rings see three rows of diamonds surrounded by beads in radiant yellow gold, gleaming white gold and warm rose gold. To accompany these rings, the maison unveils three pairs of matching earrings in yellow, white and rose gold. These new pieces reveal generous gadroons, framing a dome paved with 74 round diamonds of varying diameters.

The emblematic beads are now brought to the maison’s new watches. Five timeless pieces have a round shape fringed with a double row of golden beads, displaying an edge in mirror-polished yellow gold with dials ranging from mother-of-pearl, onyx to yellow gold. Their striking guilloché motif catches light to create radiance from within. Four of the five new models have a case of 23 mm in diameter, while the other has a diameter of 30 mm. The strap of the watches is easily interchangeable as it comes with a bracelet in grosgrain fabric. A precious bracelet made up entirely of gold bead links is also available.

Over the years, the maison has continued to create secret watches and this time around it is no different. The golden beads are gathered to adorn the timepieces that are joyfully brought to life with a selection of vibrantly coloured ornamental stones. Set in the open bangle form that is entirely composed of golden beads, the mother-of-pearl dial is revealed when the ornamental sphere is pivoted delicately to the side.

This story was first published in Prestige Malaysia’s September 2022 issue. To read the latest issue, pick up a copy from the nearest newsstand or subscribe on Magzter. 

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